Tétouan sits in the lap of a limestone mountain. Jebel Dersa rises sharply behind the medina and frames the city's skyline at roughly 1,600 metres — close enough that the cliffs are visible from any rooftop in the old town. A network of old mule paths and shepherd tracks climbs from the eastern edge of town through pine and cistus toward cliff-top viewpoints. A half-day hike to the first ridge delivers the single best aerial view of Tétouan: the white medina, the grid of the Ensanche, the Martil river, and the Mediterranean at Martil all in one frame.

The lower-ridge route from Bab el-Oqla or Bab Sebta is well-trodden and visible enough that a guide is not strictly necessary — two and a half to three hours round trip, mostly on old mule tracks through pine and low scrub before the terrain gets rockier near the top. Upper routes to secondary summits run five to six hours and cross less-used shepherd paths where local navigation matters more; for those, hire a guide through one of the Tétouan trekking outfits. Either way, sturdy shoes are essential and a 1.5-litre water bottle is the minimum — there are no shops, taps or springs on the mountain.

Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the comfortable seasons. Summer mornings are workable but the limestone radiates heat by 11am and the southern aspects become exposed by midday. Winter days are often clear and crisp — wear layers because the wind on the upper ridges drops the air temperature considerably below the city's. Pack out everything you pack in; the trail passes shepherd camps, so keep respectful distance and ask before photographing anyone.