Forty-five kilometres south of Tétouan down the Rif coastal road, the Laou river meets the Mediterranean at a small fishing village that the rest of northern Morocco has not yet rediscovered. Oued Laou fills up with Moroccan families in July and August and stays peaceful the rest of the year — long wild beach, a handful of simple seafood grills along the seafront, a working fishing harbour, and the river mouth at the southern end. For travellers who want unpolished Mediterranean Morocco rather than the Martil-M'diq resort cluster, this is the pick.

Half of the reason to go is the drive itself. The N-16 coastal road from Tétouan is one of the most beautiful in northern Morocco — cliffs on one side, sea on the other, narrow and winding in places, with a budget of about seventy minutes one way. From the village, the P-4105 road heads inland up the Laou valley to Chefchaouen through Jbala mountain villages, another ninety minutes of tight mountain driving and one of the country's better scenic loops. Combined, the Tétouan–Oued Laou–Chefchaouen–Tétouan circuit is a long six-hour driving day; relaxed travellers do it across two days with an overnight in either Oued Laou or Chefchaouen.

May, June and September are the sweet spot: warm enough to swim, quiet enough to find lunch without a wait. August is loud with Moroccan family holidays; winter the village is sleepy but the coast is dramatic. Midweek is quietest. Drive slowly on the N-16, expect occasional livestock on the road, and avoid night driving entirely — the cliffs are unlit and the curves are tight. Oued Laou has limited accommodation; book a basic riad or apartment in advance for a peak-season stay.